MORO

Bar restaurant
34/36 Exmouth Market
London, EC1 4QE
Tel: (020) 7833 8336


By Julian Sudre



The presence of a bare, if yet streamlined canteen-style eatery that pulses with a welcoming crowd at the heart of the pedestrian street in Exmouth Market remains a worthwhile experience to savour a blend of Spanish and Muslim Mediterranean cuisines.

Moro oozes with simplicity amongst a clutter of plain wooden tables and chairs on a polished wooden floor. On one side stretches the long zinc bar where tapas can be enjoyed with a glass of sherry and the open view to the kitchen that reveals wood-burning ovens and charcoal grills emphatically have the feel of a convivial tapas restaurant.

Upon our arrival, we managed to be ushered to the only vacant table and instantly we were served with sourdough bread and olive oil.
The unavoidable glass of Sangria was swiftly delivered to our table. The tapas: Babaganoush, Tortilla and Houmous were all presented in clay plates and the dish of prawn, wheat berry, grilled peppers and yoghurt salad was fresh and simple.
The prevalence of yoghurt in Moorish cuisines is a distinguished characteristic.

The baked Moroccan eggs also came in the way of a clay plate. I felt their only vegetarian dish lacked in enthusiasm and homespun creativity as was reflected with the wood roasted white pork. But the rosewater and cardamom ice cream was subtle and remarkably well balanced.

It is worthy of attention that considering the bustle and cacophony of the place, the staff were undeniably approachable, efficient and courteous.

For a restaurant that opened in 1997 and has kept exploring the Mediterranean culinary of Islamic and Southern European cultures, its spontaneity has been a benefactor amongst the wonted diners but at times, I have come away with the feeling that the dishes were a touch overpriced.